If cities had personalities, Cartagena would be the extrovert party-goer.

Colombia was never on my travel list, but, having recently visited Cartagena on the Caribbean coast, it should have been.

It’s the most colourful and vibrant city I’ve ever explored - a photographer’s paradise
The nightlife is fantastic - loud music blaring from rooftop bars and bouncing Chiva buses
The food is excellent and the cocktails large

Cartagena de Indias sign on the beachfront at Marbella on Avenida Santander

What's the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Colombia?

For me it’s coffee (I’m a coffee lover), jungle, emeralds, Encanto, and, of course, Shakira (Shakira) - don’t pretend you didn’t sing it. Unfortunately, close behind is its reputation for drugs, cartels, crime and kidnapping.

Due to the second part of that list, Colombia was never a country I intended to visit. And then I received an invitation to a wedding in Cartagena, located in the north of the country on the Caribbean coast. My initial reaction was one of sadness, as I felt I had no choice but to politely decline.

The UK’s FCDO advises ‘against all but essential travel to parts of Colombia’, listing several areas of concern, but Cartagena is not one of them. After several conversations and research, I was persuaded that this destination wedding would be fun and safe.

Thank goodness I was convinced to go, as it was the most joyous one I’ve ever attended (more about that later), in a city so full of energetic charm that I can’t believe I almost missed it through ignorance and misjudged opinion.

What is Cartagena famous for?

The walled city, its full name being Cartagena de Indias, is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site with a history as colourful as its buildings. There is a lot to see and do in the city some of which I share below, and I’ll be writing another post ‘Things to do in Cartagena Colombia’ in the coming weeks.

Plaza de Los Coches, Cartagena, Colombia

Colour - Did I just walk into a rainbow?

Prepare to read the word ‘colour’ a lot.

Blues, pinks, yellows, purples, oranges, greens. It’s almost impossible to describe how colourful the city is. In parts, it reminded me of Havana, Cuba, but the colours there are more pastel, whereas Caratagena is vivid and more intimate.

Every street is lined with brightly coloured Spanish colonial buildings, many of which have huge wooden doors with elaborate door knockers. The flags of Colombia and Cartagena blow freely in the wind. The Colombian flag colours represent gold (yellow), sea (blue), and blood (red).

Tourists and locals dress in kaleidoscopic clothes bringing a carnival to everyday life. Women in traditional costumes walk around (they will expect money if you wish to take a photo). In the district of Getsemani, painted murals and decorations hung across the streets add another dimension.

As if the buildings weren’t enough, large bougainvillea adorn many walls, sides of buildings, and hang across the streets.

It truly is a photographer’s (and content creator’s) paradise.

Bougainvilleas enhance the colours of Cartagena

Fortifications of Cartagena, Colombia

I incorrectly presumed the UNESCO World Heritage award was for the brightly coloured colonial buildings within the walls. In fact, it’s because of the walls themselves.

In February 1586, the English and Spanish were at war, when the English explorer and privateer, Sir Francis Drake, led an assault on the Spanish colonised city (a transport hub for gold, silver, and other ‘New World’ riches), occupying it for two months and seizing many treasures.

Following this attack, 11 kms of fortifications and San Felipe Castle were built during the early-mid 1600s to protect the city and its citizens from further raids by pirates and the English. Fun fact, in some parts of the walls large pieces of coral can be seen.

Streetlife in Cartagena, Colombia

A busy dual carriageway runs around the outskirts of the city but within the walls the streets are narrow - just wide enough for a small coach. Drivers follow a one-way system which can result in a build up of traffic, especially when a street vendor is pulling his fruit barrow along.

Shops

There are shops catering for every budget. Many have ‘Tax Free Shopping’ signs, enabling you to claim the duty back once at the airport.
Jewellers can be seen on almost every street. Colombian emeralds are particularly sought after for their exceptional colour and clarity. If you buy something, be sure to get a certificate/guarantee of authenticity and a tax refund certificate.
Many stores sell clothing, woven straw goods and colourful tableware, with some also selling ‘Cartagena’ or ‘Colombia’ branded goods specifically for tourists. Colombian coffee can be found in supermarkets and ‘off licence’ style shops.
The La Serreuzela mall (previously a bullring) has dozens of local and international luxury brands. Unfortunately, on the morning we wanted to grab a coffee and look around, the mall was unexpectedly closed.
A few minutes away are Las Bovedas (The Vaults) where market stalls and shops are found in the fortification walls, once used as barracks and jails.

Vibrantly decorated tableware for sale in a shop at Las Bovedas - I regret not buying myself one

Street vendors and hawkers

In every plaza, carts are laden with tropical fruits such as lulos, guanabana, mamoncillo, avocados, and sliced mangos sprinkled with chilli or pepper (the pepper ones are surprisingly good). The pavements are lined with people selling all sorts - artwork, sunglasses, wooden beaded jewellery, and cigars. Shaded archways and colonnades are full of stalls selling sweet treats, plants, straw hats, handbags and fans.

Street hawkers often approach pedestrians and people sitting at open-air cafes and restaurants, actively trying to sell their goods. Some can be insistent so, if you’re not interested in their items, politely but firmly say ‘ No, gracias’.

Street performers

You will most certainly come across street entertainers. Musicians, singers, and acrobats - of varying talent - perform for around five to ten minutes with the expectation their unsuspecting audience will pay for the entertainment. It has to be said that the most irritating and intrusive performers are rappers who, completely uninvited, walk alongside you yelling in your ear.

Drugs

Be aware that you may be offered drugs. On a few occasions, our group were openly offered drugs on the street. Usually, it was when a male was standing on his own.

Tip: From 8 am onwards the streets get busy, so for empty streets and great photos, I recommend being there around 7-7:30 am at the latest. It’s also cooler (and I use that term loosely) - from mid-morning to late afternoon, the city gets very hot and sticky.

After sunset is party time

Oh my! The city becomes a noisy fiesta. Colombians know how to party. And party hard!

Rooftop bars light up and play the music loud. The drinks are generous. The smiles are wide. South American and Caribbean rhythms take over. Wow, they know how to dance. To quote Shakira’s Hips Don’t Lie, ‘Let me see you move like you come from Colombia’. If only.

Chiva party buses literally bounce along the city roads outside the walls, as passengers dance to the music blaring from the speakers. This experience originated in Colombia, and may not be for those with delicate ears, or the health and safety conscious. These chunky buses with roof racks and sturdy chassis, built to handle the country’s roads in rural areas, are converted into moving nightclubs. Some have the original rows of wooden seats, and others an open space for dancing.

One of the many Chiva Party Buses that tour the city

Plaza de San Pedro Claver and the church where the couple were married

Getting Around Cartagena, Colombia

Walking

The city is small and easily walkable. For example:

Pedro San Claver to Getsemani 15 minutes
Pedro San Claver to La Serrezuela Mall 15 minutes

Pedro San Claver to La Serrezuela Mall via a walk along the walls took 1.5 hours but we meandered and stopped for photos
Hyatt Hotel Bocagrande to Pedro San Claver along the seafront takes 20 minutes

Tip: Whilst looking around and enjoying the sights of the city and shop windows, keep an eye on where you are stepping as the pavements have multiple trip hazards and potential ankle-breaking holes.

A couple of pavement trip hazards. Most were much smaller empty bollard holes but these were particularly big.

Taxis

Driving standards are somewhat different to the UK. A dual carriageway became four cars wide at one point. Junctions appear to be there as a suggestion rather than an obligation. It’s a bit like being part of a well-rehearsed criss-cross marching band formation.

Yellow and white public taxis, clearly marked with ‘Servicio Publico’, operate in the city. Our experience was the white taxis were generally cleaner and more comfortable. The yellow ones are fine but the aircon might not work, the seatbelts are hit-and-miss, and many have signs of ‘traffic incidents’.

Depending on the time of day and traffic, the journey was a 5-15 minute drive to the walled city. Whichever one we chose, the cost was the same - approximately COP10,000-20,000 (USD2.50-5/GBP2-4)* per journey.

Tip: It is strongly recommended to agree on a price before getting in the taxi. Some drivers referred to Colombian Pesos as ‘Dollars’ which caught me out once. I agreed to ‘10 dollars’ thinking he meant COP10,000, but he refused to let my daughter and me out until I paid USD10/GBP8 which is approximately COP41,000. Thankfully, I had a few USD but didn’t make that mistake again.

* Conversion rates are approximate

Other Options

Motorbike taxis - not that I would have risked one in the often chaotic traffic. On an early morning walk, we saw quite a few people dropped off near the walls, presumably for work. In the evening, horse and carriage rides operate within the walls.

Or follow a wedding procession from Pedro San Claver.

Clockwise from top left: Tacos; Caesar salad; Red snapper; Nachos

Food in Cartagena

Due to the country’s history, Colombian food has a mix of influences including Spanish, African, Caribbean and Amazonian. The choices in Cartagena were varied, and every venue we ate at had good quality and tasty food. The only thing I wasn’t keen on was fried plantain.

Here are some of the places we tried.

Pizzeria Fernández Madrid by the Plaza Fernández Madrid, San Diego. The service is a little sporadic so be patient. We sat outside and I highly recommend the chicken Caesar salad (COP44,300/GBP8). The pizzas were good too. Street hawkers and performers regularly work in this area.
Los Tacos del Gordo, San Diego virtually opposite the above. It’s a relaxed and friendly taco bar with only four tables and a couple of counter stools. My daughter and I had nachos, followed by the beef and chicken tacos.
La Brioche, Centro Historico had a great selection of pastries, pancakes, breakfast bowls and hot sandwiches. The croissants were enormous.
Crepes and Waffles are all over the city and they do great gelato. A serving of two generous scoops cost just COP9,500/GBP2.

For COP33,300/GBP6, I had churros served with chocolate and dulce de leche, and a coffee at a lovely patisserie in the city centre but I can’t recall its name. We made regular visits to the food hall in our apartment complex where we got an ample portion of tasty chicken teriyaki noodles for approximately COP17,500/GBP3.

We never visited the Tentadero food hall in La Serrezuela mall but it looks amazing.

Clockwise from top left: Churros; Pancakes; Croissant; Selection of sweet treats

Weather in Cartagena

Prepare to sweat!

I expected it to be hot (some days feeling like +40°) but the high humidity (+80%) made it very sticky. I was extremely grateful for a strong warm wind that seemed to appear late morning, as this kept the air moving.

I spent a couple of afternoons on the beach as the lure of 27° sea water was too much to resist. All along the Bocagrande there were usually waves coming in, some days calmer than others. Sun shades and seats or loungers can be hired.

Even at night, the temperature remains in the high 20s, but a nice surprise was the lack of mosquitos.

Torre del Reloj de Cartagena clock tower and gate built 400 years ago

Where to Stay in Cartagena

The majority of hotels and holiday apartments are located outside the walls along the Bocagrande. Some are within the walls including, according to many taxi drivers, the one where Shakira stays.

I’m so glad we decided not to stay within the Walled City, as the heat would have been oppressive.

I recommend staying on the Caribbean Sea side of the Bocagrande, where you should get fabulous views of the sunset. The other side of the Bocagrande looks over the port and naval base, and offers views of the sunrise.

We chose a 14th floor apartment located in the Edificio H2 / Hyatt Hotel complex, at the start of the Bocagrande. It had two bedrooms and two bathrooms with a balcony overlooking the pool, beach and Caribbean Sea. A bonus was that it was above the Plaza Bocagrande Centro Comercial shopping mall which had stores, a food hall, a supermarket, and a Cambio Exchange.

There are also places to stay on the other side of the city in La Boquilla. It’s a similar distance from the walled city, and the beach appeared quieter here. I only visited the area once, for a horse riding experience, and it became less built up with a more local community the further I went.

As in many cities, districts are split by wealth. A guide told us that in Cartagena the divide is great - the extremely wealthy and wealthy; the poor and extremely poor. He said that the average earnings in the city are approximately GBP600 per month, meaning many families survive on far less. It explains why there are so many street hawkers within the walls, around the hotels, and on the beach.

Tip: Wherever you stay make sure it has working aircon.

Safety and Crime

There is no doubt that Colombia has a high crime rate and it is important to keep this in mind, especially in areas of the country with a greater risk of more serious crimes. The high presence of police and security guards in Cartagena meant that, although always alert to the risks of pick-pocketing and mugging, after a few days I felt more relaxed. During the second week, I felt safe enough to walk around the city alone during the day.

Some of the flowers that were a big part of the day

And, the Wedding?

Wow! An extraordinary day - correction, week.

The bride and her family moved from Colombia to Toronto when she was young, but her lifelong wish was to be married in Cartagena. Her fiancé, born in Jersey, also moved to Toronto with his family when he was young, and was more than happy to agree to her wish.

Arranging a destination wedding must be hard enough, but the organisation and effort involved to make each wedding guest feel relaxed and welcome was outstanding.

The majority of guests came from Toronto, others from Colombia, and four of us from England/Jersey. Knowing that for many guests this would be their annual holiday, the family booked multiple events at spectacular locations throughout the week of celebration.

A few hours after landing we headed to the rooftop bar at Andrés Carne de Res to meet the other guests. A beach day at Vista Mare Beach House on Tierra Bomba Island was followed by dancing away the evening on a Chiva bus tour.

The wedding was, you guessed it, colourful.

The radiant bride and handsome groom were escorted by bridesmaids dressed in different colours paired with groomsmen with buttonholes matching their dress colour. Both families beamed with pride. The love, words and music in the stunning location caused emotions to overflow. I’ve never cried so much at a wedding - many men and women doing the same. All of us trying, and mostly failing, to dab away the tears streaming down our faces.

The bride and groom have given permission to share a few photos

As we filed out of the church, a surprise awaited us - a group of musicians and dancers in beautiful flowing white dresses. And so the celebration started. We followed the happy couple as they began a procession to the reception venue - literally dancing in the streets.

Excuse my video editing skills, I’ve accompanied most of the video with a song they played just before they walked down the aisle but desperately wanted to include a couple of clips of the procession too. Perhaps I should stick to writing but, hopefully, you’ll get an idea of how emotional, beautiful and fun the day was.

The groom’s parents are my dearest lifelong friends but I had never met the bride’s family who are welcoming, friendly and vivacious.

Much like their wonderful country.

Credit: Photos of the ceremony were taken by the wedding photographer

I’d love to know if you’ve ever visited Cartagena, or whether this post has given you the inclination to do so.

Colourful Cartagena Colombia